Whether you head to Monaco for Formula 1 racing or to enjoy a little James Bond moment at Casino de Monte-Carlo (or to live out your “The Princess Diaries” fantasy in a real-life Genovia), this slice of Mediterranean paradise never falls short of cinematic.
And just around the corner from the city-state’s famed Monaco hairpin — notoriously the slowest and tightest corner in F1 — is one of the most storied hotels in the world. Hotel Metropole Monte-Carlo, lording over the city in Belle-Époque regality since 1889, is as much a secluded retreat as it is a staple in one of the world’s wealthiest bastions. But don’t think of this Italianate mansion as a walled-off fortress from the rest of the Riviera splendor.
Instead, it’s more of a choose-your-own luxe kind of adventure.
I popped into the Hotel Metropole for a post-conference stay earlier this year to check out interior desginer Jacques Garcia’s newly renovated rooms and suites. The renovation has been the talk of the travel journo circuit, and the experience lived up to the hype — especially those mirrored, stand-alone soaking tubs, but more on that later.
There’s a tourist hum a little over a block away around Casino de Monte-Carlo, but Hotel Metropole and its landscaped gardens sit back from the main boulevards, removed from the fray. The softly lit lobby — imposing stone, tilework, hanging tapestries, cloistered seating areas — practically begs for a clandestine rendezvous. Upstairs in the guest rooms and suites, the design takes an entirely different turn.
The junior suite is the kind of room that makes you reconsider your entire home décor philosophy. I’m not exactly one for yellow, but Garcia’s renovation (at least on my floor) leans into buttery tones, mirrored panels and sliding doors, brass hardware, and rich upholstery. The Belle-Époque architectural bones do a lot of the heavy lifting, but the interior redesign gives the space a contemporary flair — fit for your inner modern royal.
And yes, about that soaking tub. It is legitimately one of the better baths I’ve taken in recent memory, thanks to Hotel Metropole bath salts — and, fine, a glass of wine and a Taylor Swift playlist. Just one soak, and you’ll already be thinking about requesting a late check-out.
Beyond the room, the Hotel Metropole’s real flex is how effortlessly it wears its history without feeling like a museum. The pool, designed by Karl Lagerfeld and anchored by the Odyssey restaurant for poolside bites, is the social hub in warmer months — I even managed a few laps and a lingering tan during my late-winter stay. The hotel’s Guerlain Spa delivers the self-care staples you’d expect from a property of this caliber; in my case, an aromatic facial with the occasional citrus spritz to chase away a few months of New England gray.
Dining is not an afterthought. The culinary flagship, Les Ambassadeurs by Christophe Cussac, holds two Michelin stars. It was closed for seasonal touch-ups during my visit, but its balcony overlooks the F1 loop and promises revelry for those who want a little horsepower with their tasting menu. Yoshi, the hotel’s tucked-away Japanese restaurant, offers an intimate backdrop for omakase and teppanyaki alongside a serious sake and whiskey lineup.
Even a cocktail in the lobby bar is a full event: Note the two Picassos lurking on the walls. Order the escargot and beef tartare, and don’t sleep on the house-made breads. The vibe skews friendly over formidable — an impromptu gin tasting one evening led me to my new favorite (44°N), courtesy of the Hotel Metropole team. Depending on the time of year, guests are also treated to a seasonal "Metropole Mood," where seasonal vibes influence the lobby decor and even cocktail list. This spring's Metropole Mood leans into monochrome yellow, florals, and even a citrus-forward Prince Explorer gin (another fabulous inclusion on the gin tasting) cocktail dubbed the Floraison.
Location is, of course, part of the value proposition in a city-state where real estate is a competitive sport. During Grand Prix weekend, race week chaos is both accessible and, crucially, escapable — the hotel’s interior courtyard becomes a sanctuary when the city goes full paddock-club outside.
Following my stay, Hotel Metropole announced this month a new general manager, Klaus Kabelitz, who arrives from his prior GM perch at the The Kensington in London. Hotel Metropole is also a member of The Leading Hotels of the World, and it earns that affiliation where it matters most: the service, the excellence of the staff, and a sense that the operation runs on institutional knowledge rather than brand standards.
Whether it was that gin tasting, a chat about local life in Monaco, or procuring a very last-minute taxi to the airport, the team consistently delivered. I spent the cab ride already plotting a return.
You might go to Monaco for the James Bond moment at the casino, but why not retreat to a Garcia-designed bubble bath at Hotel Metropole? I’ll let you decide which is the real jackpot.
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